The Best Long Walks around Exmoor
Discover some of the best long walks on offer in Exmoor National Park
Daniel Start, author of the new Wild Guide Wales, chooses his favourite wild camping spots in Wales and gives you directions on how to get there.
The Black Mountain, at the far westerly end of the Brecon Beacons National Park (not to be confused with the Black Mountains to the east), is a mysterious area of sinkholes and escarpments, ancient stones and caves. There are no jagged peaks here, but two ethereal tarns hide under the summit.
Llyn y Fan Fach is the legendary home of the Lady of the Lake. She was said to rise from the lake shimmering on the first Sunday of August, and also faces north-west, perfect for a midsummer sunset. Llyn y Fan Fawr faces north-east, and is just around the corner, perfect for a morning wake-up dip. A wall of bare scree rises up on the south of both, and many miles of central Wales’ most remote interior drops away in undulating vistas to the north. Above are several summits for a high-level circular walk, returning via the lakes.
Leave A4069 between Brynamman and Llangadog, following signs for Llyn y Fan and YHA hostel at Twynllanan, and then head on to Llandeusant SA19 9UL. Continue past church 1 mile to Blaenau Farm (with camping) and on up to road end, then by foot on up track (Beacons Way).
Emptiness, wilderness and water: a land of peaks, forest and lakes, the ‘Green Desert of Wales’ is still one of the least-frequented places in Britain. High in the barren uplands of the Cambrians lies the twisting wild reservoir of Nant-y-Moch with long shale shores, many coves and an empty road hugging its southern shores. Rising above is the hulk of Plynlimon, the highest point in the Cambrians (752m) and source of both the Severn and the Wye. The road here feels like an epic journey in itself, even in a car, but follow the tracks higher for even wilder camping.
Turn off A487 Tal-y-bont by the White Lion and Black Lion, and follow signs for Nantymoch, past turning to SY24 5HL.
At top, about 5 miles from pub, bear R. Pass lovely Llyn Nantycagl on L after ½ mile, to reservoir after 2 miles.
The main beach shore is after another 2 miles; continue up to 3 miles beyond this, turning L after the dam, to explore the little island/peninsula (52.4777, -3.8120) and the flanks of Plynlimon. At the road end (gates at Maesnant), take the R track (public byway) another mile up to the Afon Hengwm.
The far northern reaches of Snowdonia offer some of the highest mountains in England and Wales but have far fewer visitors, and those prepared to climb are rewarded with views of the coast and Anglesey. The Caseg valley is a magnificent but remote entrance to the mighty, but lesser visited Carneddau range, with quarries and a truly wild spot to camp at Cwm Caseg,this perfect mountain tarn.
From Bethesda drive beyond LL57 3UD to park at road end at pump station, then follow path east upriver for 90 minutes.
A timeless, island feel pervades this magical and too-often overlooked peninsula. Tiny lanes lined with wildflowers lead to empty coves and rugged cliffs. Porth Iago is one of the best little beaches on the Lleyn: little known, sunset facing, sheltered, with golden sands, clear waters and an ancient hill fort lookout. You can even wild camp here - its included in the parking fee, just pay at the farm as you pass through - then roll straight out of your tent onto the sand and into the water. The rocks around are a good place for fishing so get the barbecue ready and collect some wild thyme for seasoning.
Signed 1½ mile NE of Rhoshirwaun on B4413.
Take second R after 2½ miles, then first L, signed Iago (LL53 8LP), then second track on L through Ty Mawr Farm.
Parking / camping £5.
Simple facilities and cold showers attract hardier campers to this superbly located set of fields right on the coastpath above Broad Haven beach. The lower camping field is a dell that leads straight to two secret coves, or you can walk along to St Govan’s head where a tiny hermitage is hidden in the cliffs. From Broad Haven a verdant path passes wildlife-rich lily ponds and leads to the Stackpole Inn, or explore along the coast to find the blue crater lagoon and several amazing sea caves.
Bosherston, SA71 5DZ, 01646 661643.
Discover more hidden places to visit in Wales, Shropshire and Herefordshire with The Wild Guide Wales and Marches by Daniel Start.
This book contains over 1000 wild and hidden places to explore.
Buy your copy today and receive 20% discount and free P&P at www.wildthingspublishing.com using the discount code 'OS18' at the checkout.
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