Our islands have unique outer edges, the boundary between land and sea presenting perhaps the greatest wildness left in Britain. They are the ultimate places for adventure, challenge and solitude. Undoubtedly the best way of experiencing them is by ‘islandeering’ – walking around the island’s rim.
St Martin’s, Scilly
With dramatic clifftops, wild beaches, tiny tracks and deep gullies there is always an adventure to be found on the way. Getting to them can be an adventure too with tidal sands, ferries, boats and even swimming if you can.
Here are some of my top ten islandeering routes and adventures, from my book Islandeering.
1. Scolt Head, Norfolk
Best for picnics, wildlife and swimming
Scolt Head, Norfolk
A wet and wild wade through sun-warmed channels leads to a walk along a stunning natural beach. From Burnham Overy Staithe either take the seasonal ferry or cross two streams to get to the island at low tide. The adventurous can wade along the tidal creeks and wildlife-filled saltmarsh of the south shore, enjoying warm, secluded swims on the way. Cross to the north coast with its pounding surf and wild and extensive sands.
Scolt Head, Norfolk
There is an internationally important ternery at the west end of the island with five species of tern and access is restricted April to August. It is also possible to do a circular walk from Burnham Overy Staithe to Scolt Head Island, walk the length of its north shore, cross through the dunes to the south via Butcher’s Beach and at low tide cross Norton Creek to Burnham Deepdale to return to Burnham Overy Staithe along the Norfolk Coast Path.
2. Chapel, Cumbria
Best for adventurers
Chapel, Cumbria
Chapel offers an exhilarating 5.8km walking and wading route with notorious sinking sands and extremely quick tides. It’s best to go with a guide who will know the safest route across the fast-flowing River Leven and the wilderness of Morecombe Bay (The Queen’s Guide to the Sands; guideoversands.co.uk).
The circumnavigation then follows on the glorious sculpted sands of the island’s foreshore against the backdrop of the mountains of the South Lakes. What if you get into trouble? “If you feel yourself sinking, don’t stop – just keep moving,” says the guide.
3. St Martin’s, Scilly
Best for walking and local food
St Martin’s, Scilly
A sweeping shoreline strung with award-winning beaches, rockpools and secluded swims on the edge of an archipelago with plenty of pitstops to savour. Walk the 14 km circular coast path and explore ancient ruins on tidal White Island and the vast and vibrant rockpools of Pernagie Point.
Swim in the shallow, crystal-clear waters of St Martin’s flats or St Martin’s Bay, voted Britain’s best beach, and restock calories with home caught, grown and made fish and chips and treats from the island bakery. There’s also a great family campsite here located right next to the beach.